Original, pure, and magnificent! Explore China's least-known "no man's land"

Human civilization spreads across all continents and oceans

And has already flown into the vast universe today

It always keeps its original appearance.

On tens of thousands of square kilometers of land

There is no road

No house

There isn't even a telephone pole.

Bones scattered, desolate and lonely

This is the most common scene on this earth.

(Aertun Mountains, wild yak skulls scattered in the wilderness, photographer @姜鸿)

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Sandstorms and crises

The terrifying environment is like hell

(Thick dark clouds are floating over the desert, dark and depressing, photographer @王威)

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It is the Altun Mountain National Nature Reserve.

At the same latitude in the Northern Hemisphere

One of the most harsh natural environments

It was once the most important city in China and even the world.

The worst researched blank areas

So

What made it a piece of

A deserted place with few people?

What gave it its current appearance?

01

Plateau of Despair

In fact, the Altun Mountains are a

A narrow mountain range between the Kunlun Mountains and the Qilian Mountains

It lies at the junction of Xinjiang, Qinghai and Gansu provinces.

But it is not the protagonist of this article.

But it is located south of this mountain range.

Altun Mountain National Nature Reserve

(hereinafter referred to as Altun Mountain)

Although they have the same name

But there is no correlation in terms of geographical location

The main part of the reserve is located in the largest basin in Kunlun Mountains.

In the Kumukuli Basin

Its total area is as high as 45,000 square kilometers.

Bigger than the entire Taiwan Province

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the Altun Mountain National Nature Reserve is a schematic diagram. Although it has the same name as the Altun Mountains, in fact the reserve has no regional connection with the mountains and is completely independent of the mountains. Map by @张松楠&汉青/星球研究院)

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at the same time

The Altun Mountains and

Hoh Xil, Lop Nur, Qiangtang and other national nature reserves

Collectively known as China's four major uninhabited areas

(Distribution diagram of the four major nature reserves, drawn by @Zhang Songnan & Han Qing/Planet Research Institute)

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But the other three no-man's land

Or known for the tragic poaching incidents

Or attracting the public with mysterious ancient civilization

Only the Altun Mountains are little known

There is no extra ink in the world to write it

There is no complete film or television work to record it.

But that doesn't mean it's inherently mediocre.

on the contrary

This is the almost forgotten corner

But it carries the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau

The despair that humans cannot approach

(Please watch in horizontal mode, a group of wild yaks are crossing the endless desert. They look very small in the desert. Photographer: @桃叔)

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The Altun Mountains are still

Sharing everything on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau

Including bad natural conditions

Its average altitude is over 4,000 meters.

Low oxygen and harsh climate

The rotation of the four seasons stops here

Only the monotonous alternation of cold and warm

Implying the flow of time

But the warm moments are very short-lived

Therefore, its average annual temperature is only 2°C

The coldest time in winter is even below -30℃

(The snow-covered East Kunlun Mountains at the border of the Altun Mountains, photographer @姜鸿)

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However

The despair in the Altun Mountains does not end there

Even on a global scale

Its altitude is quite high

But around it

But it is surrounded by a group of higher mountains

These include

Qimantag Mountain with an altitude of over 5,000 meters

(Qimanta Mountain is a mountain range in the northeast of the reserve. The picture below only shows a corner of it. Photographer: @郝沛)

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The highest peak in the middle section of Kunlun Mountains

Muztagh Peak, which is nearly 7,000 meters above sea level, etc.

(The majestic and broad Muztagh Peak, photographer @文兴华)

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Located inland, far from the ocean

In addition, the mountains are surrounding it, blocking the water vapor.

Make it even drier in arid areas

Only when spring and summer meet

Warm and moist air blowing from the Bay of Bengal

After a long journey of nearly 2,000 kilometers

Only then can I become a drop of rain that floats into the sky above the Altun Mountains

Therefore, the average annual precipitation here is

Only a little over 100 mm

(Moist clouds in the Qimantag Mountains, photographer @瑾磊)

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But in this place closest to the sky

It will receive up to 2,900 hours of sunshine per year.

The evaporation volume reached 2500 mm.

Less precipitation, more evaporation

An extremely arid zone was born.

(Cracked earth caused by dry climate, photographer @沈久泉)

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Dry and cold

It also led to the growth of another force.

That is the wind

But the strong wind did not bring more moisture to the Altun Mountains

Instead, it carries countless grains of sand

On the boundless plateau

The sand dunes are piled up in all kinds of shapes

Some of them stand like towers

Pyramid-shaped dunes

Up to 200 meters

(Pyramid-shaped sand dunes like mountains, photographer @桃叔)

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Some are like new crescent moons

The middle is tall and the two wings are curved

It is a crescent-shaped sand dune that can indicate the wind direction.

(Crescent-shaped sand dunes, photographer @桃叔)

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When the sand dunes are connected to each other

This forms a chain of sand dunes like waves in the sea of ​​sand.

These winding chains of sand dunes

It can often extend tens of meters or even kilometers away

(The winding sand dune chain, photographer @王威)

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Various sand dunes

Connected to each other and continuously extended

Finally at the foot of the mountains

Paved the vast desert

(Display of desert distribution in the Altun Mountain National Nature Reserve, drawn by @Zhang Songnan & Han Qing/Planetary Research Institute)

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These include

The largest

It is also the highest desert in the world.

Kumukuli Desert

Here

What connects the desolation is a wider desolation

Beyond loneliness lurks a deeper loneliness

(Kumukul Desert, Photographer @Dreamland)

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Surrounded by mountains and buried by yellow sand

Is this plateau, shrouded in high altitude, oxygen deprivation, drought and sandstorms, destined to be filled with despair and hopelessness of life?

02

Wilderness of Hope

When we look at this area from a satellite map

You will find

The area should have been very dry.

But unexpectedly, many

Water systems scattered in different corners

(Diagram of the water system distribution in the Altun Mountain National Nature Reserve, drawn by @Zhang Songnan & Han Qing/Planet Research Institute)

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If you look closely at some of these lakes

You will be amazed by its clarity.

(Please watch in horizontal mode, panoramic view of Rabbit Lake, photographer @郝沛)

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The water source that nourishes these rivers and lakes

It comes from

Surrounded by a ring of high mountains around the Altun Mountains

In areas with an altitude of more than 5,500 meters

Tiny snowflakes are hard to melt

They accumulate, compact, and crystallize

Eventually, 388 glaciers were formed.

(Glacier developed on the Bukadaban Peak. The area above 5,500 meters above sea level in the reserve is permanently covered with snow. Photographer: @Buqiong)

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Among them, Muztagh Peak, located in the southwest corner of the Altun Mountains

It is also the area with the most modern glaciers.

It has Binglinchuan, Linglong, Crescent Moon, etc.

116 glaciers of all sizes

The total area is more than 680 square kilometers

Occupies the Altun Mountains

58% of the total glacier area

(Glacier on Muztagh Peak, photographer @文兴华)

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All the glaciers around the Altun Mountains

Equivalent to nearly 70 billion cubic meters of freshwater resources

Able to meet Guangzhou’s domestic water demand for nearly 7 years

These solidified water sources

It is the ray of hope for the Altun Mountains.

However, the water flow formed by the melting of glaciers is very weak.

Not enough to fight the endless drought

But when thousands of waters converge into one place

Then you will have the energy to be unstoppable

(Please watch in horizontal mode, a river breaking through the desert in the Altun Mountains, photographer @李学亮)

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They are from the top of the mountain

Running down

Gathering and interweaving in the vast wilderness

(Braided River, Photographer @张磊)

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It can even travel freely above and below ground.

Some seep into the ground and flow quietly in the form of undercurrents

When the undercurrent water level is higher than the ground

Appearing out of nowhere in the desert

(A spring in the Kumukuli Desert that looks like an animal's eye, photographer @王汉冰)

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Finally, the overflowing water

In the low-lying area surrounded by mountains

Created 7 major lakes

And many small lakes scattered around

They not only moisten the dry land

It has also become the most beautiful embellishment in the vast wilderness.

(The nameless lake in the Kumukuli Desert, photographer @沈久泉)

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The largest of these is

Ayakekumu Lake in the north of the reserve

It is vast and boundless.

(The blue water of Ayakekumu Lake and the brown shore form a clear boundary, photographer @柴江辉)

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Aqik Lake in the northwest corner of the reserve

Although it ranks second in terms of area

But the scenery is also not inferior

The sky is bright and clear

(Aqike Lake, photographer @文兴华)

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These flowing, rippling waters

The hope of Altun Mountain

As long as the hundreds of glaciers around don't disappear

This hope will continue to irrigate this place

Although water is the source of life

But in this troubled wilderness

Even though there are thousands of rivers flowing

It is not enough to create a thriving place for all living beings.

All life needs to rely on its own skills

To be deeply rooted in this

03

Freedom

Tall trees

They can no longer adapt to such a dry and cold environment.

Therefore, there are no lush forests in the Altun Mountains.

But countless low vegetation

But it makes this place full of different vitality

(Seabuckthorn, photographer @姜鸿)

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However, these abilities that grow in adversity

It's not something they are born with.

With the dramatic uplift of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau

The climate here

A radical change has taken place

It also deeply affects all the lives that have lived here.

Some of them fled in search of new homes.

Some went straight to extinction.

Most of the plants and animals that live here today

All in the long time

Gradually, in appearance, organs, genes

Differences from their ancestors

Finally found a foothold on this plateau

Near water

The living pressure is relatively small

Vegetation such as cedar leaf algae is growing very well

(The lush green algae in the water of Yixie Kepati Lake, photographer @Hao Pei)

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In the desert area far away from water sources

Especially the large saline-alkali land left after the water evaporates

It seems to be a restricted area for life

But some of the more tenacious flora refuse to accept their fate.

They are cold, drought and salt tolerant.

Almost invincible

(Vegetation growing in arid saline-alkali land, photographer @李学亮)

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In places with strong winds, drought and poor soil

Plants can also grow by creeping

Cleverly avoid these survival problems

For example, the tiny cushion-shaped

Low crawling posture

To protect them from cold and wind

Blooming in clusters between rock cracks

(The delicate cushion-shaped flowers of the Prunus armeniaca, photographer @姜鸿)

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At the same time, the invisible root system underground

It can also help many plants survive drought and other difficulties.

For example, the linden with its beautiful flowers

Even in a barren land

Can also open gracefully on its own

(Iris cylindrica blooming between the Gobi Desert and the snow-capped mountains, photographer @姜鸿)

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Even though they have their own abilities

But there is one thing that all plants must master.

That is to accurately grasp every year

Even in the warmest hours of the day,

In this cold land

Bloom and bear fruit, multiply and thrive

then

Numerous low-growing herbs and shrubs

At the end of the desert, at the foot of the snow-capped mountains

Connected into pieces

A different and vibrant oasis

(Please watch in horizontal mode, wetlands by the Isekpati Lake, photographer @郝沛)

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Now, not only is there growth here

About 400 species of wild plants

There are also about 200 species of wild animals living in

And the way animals survive in adversity

Even more exciting

(Tibetan antelope at the foot of the snow-capped mountains, photographer @姜鸿)

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As the climate gets colder

Animals must be able to withstand cold

For example, the three major ungulates

Tibetan antelope, wild yak, Tibetan wild donkey

They have warmer fur than their ancestors.

(Wild yaks running on the snow, photographer @郭喜来)

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But compared to cold protection

Hypoxia problem seems to be more difficult

But animals have their own tricks.

For example, Tibetan antelope

They have larger and more uniquely structured nasal cavities.

And thicker blood vessels, bigger hearts

Ensure you have enough oxygen

To cope with hypoxic environment

(Comparison between Tibetan antelope and goat, Tibetan antelope is the official name of Tibetan antelope, map by @Hanqing/Planet Research Institute)

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The docile Tibetan antelope is seen as a

One of the most delicious prey

But they can rely on the speed of "wind"

Avoid being hunted by natural enemies

Tibetan antelopes can run at speeds of 80-100 kilometers per hour.

With super endurance

That is to say

Without having to wait for traffic lights

They are less than an hour

It can go around Beijing's Fourth Ring Road (65.3 kilometers) in one full circle.

(Tibetan antelopes running under the snow-capped mountains, photographer @姜鸿)

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In addition to running to avoid predators

Tibetan antelopes still retain the habit of regular migration.

This will also allow them to reproduce more safely.

Every year from May to August

Tibetan antelope preparing to give birth

They will go to a fixed breeding ground in groups

Wait until after August

They return to areas with more abundant aquatic plants.

But the difference is

There are many staggering Tibetan antelope cubs among the sheep.

This is also the cruel wilderness.

A rare tender scene

(There are still a few cubs in the Tibetan antelope group, photographer @王鹏)

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For wild yaks

They have shorter tracheas and more developed hearts and lungs.

And a wider chest

Therefore, it can cope with hypoxic environments more easily

(Comparison of the body structures of wild yaks and buffaloes, courtesy of @Hanqing/Planetary Research Institute)

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These enhanced body structures

Not only does it allow them to easily adapt to the plateau environment

Also has explosive combat power

Even very ferocious animals such as wild wolves and brown bears

It's hard to match it

(The “cow” is looking at you intently, photographer @花涩)

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Their traces are found in different corners of the reserve.

Or crossing the desert in droves

Go explore another beautiful scenery

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the wild yaks are crossing the desert, there is a sense of beauty that coexists with vitality and desolation, photographer @桃叔)

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Or walk alone to the end of the water

Sit and watch the clouds rise

(A lonely wild yak walks to the sand spring, photographer @文兴华)

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In this vast and free world

It houses about 12,000 wild yaks

(Please watch in horizontal mode, a "caravan" of wild yaks on the grassland, photographer @姜鸿)

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About 49,500 Tibetan antelopes

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Tibetan antelope "caravan" in the ice and snow, photographer @姜鸿)

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About 50,000 Tibetan wild donkeys

(Please watch horizontally, a caravan of Tibetan wild donkeys in the wilderness, photographer @王斌)

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Still blessing

Weak pika

(Two pikas curiously looking ahead, photographer @文兴华)

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Cute Tibetan fox

(The smiling Tibetan fox, photographer @王智伟)

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Lazy brown bear

(Brown bear basking in the sun on the grassland, photographer @姜鸿)

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Cute and clever Tibetan antelope

(Tibetan antelope, photographer @桑杰加)

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The buzzard (kuáng), which is sometimes fierce and sometimes cute, etc.

(A buzzard tilting its head in curiosity, photographer @郝沛)

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These lives

Although most of them do not have tropical plants and animals

Colorful and exquisite appearance

But each of them

They are all warriors and winners who have fought against the adversity of the plateau.

It is also the greatest hope in this wilderness.

(Please watch in horizontal mode, a group of wild yaks are climbing the tall sand dunes next to the lake, photographer @鲁全国)

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Get here

The hope of Altun Mountain has been fully revealed

In fact, its despair

It will never disappear because of the existence of hope

Dry, cold, oxygen-deficient, full of unknowns

It's still its normal state

but

Whenever the storm begins to become gentle

Whenever a rainbow spans the desert and the clouds

Whenever the starry sky breaks through the dark night

Whenever the sun shines unreservedly on the holy snow-capped mountains

Whenever all living beings happily gallop in the boundless wilderness

The dawn of hope once again illuminates the haze of despair

And these

Maybe it's something we can never experience in person.

Unique to the Altun Mountains

Despair like a mountain of swords and a sea of ​​fire

With glittering hope

(A wild wolf and a wild yak stand side by side at the foot of a majestic and broad snow-capped mountain. Photographer: Jiang Hong)

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This article was created by

Written by : Xiao Jindou

Editor : Wang Kun Photo : Pan Chenxia

Design : Hanqing Map : Song Nan

Reviewer : Yunwukongcheng&Mirror

Audit Expert

Lian Xinming, researcher at the Northwest Institute of Plateau Biology, Chinese Academy of Sciences

Note:

Not all precipitation in the Altun Mountains comes from the warm and humid air currents blowing from the Bay of Bengal.

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