Who is the king of volcanoes in China?

January 15, 2022

Tonga, a South Pacific island nation

A volcanic eruption without warning

Shocked the world

This is the world's

The most powerful volcanic eruption

(Satellite image of the Tonga volcano eruption. Changbai Mountain may have an eruption no less severe than this in the future. Image source: NASA)

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Shocked

People also began to think

Are there similar dangerous elements around us?

The answer is yes

Autumn of 946 AD

On the land of Northeast China

A loud noise shook the world

A column of smoke shot straight up into the sky

Long-dormant supervolcano suddenly awakens

Changbai Mountain

It broke out

(Looking at Changbai Mountain today, photographer @朴龙国)

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This is the first time that Changbai Mountain has been recorded in historical documents.

The most violent volcanic eruption

It is also the largest volcanic eruption in China in nearly 10,000 years.

One of the largest volcanic eruptions in the world in 2,000 years

Huge power

The mountaintop becomes fragmented

(Please watch in horizontal mode, aerial photo of Changbai Mountain, image source: @Visual China)

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Volcanic ash drifts across the ocean

A few days later

Scattered like snowflakes in Japan

People were amazed

This strange phenomenon was also recorded in history

(The following is from the Japanese historical material "Kofukuji Chronicle". Due to the wind direction and the separation of political power, there is no written record in Chinese historical materials)

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"On the night of October 7, the white ash scattered like snow"

(Please watch in horizontal mode. This is a diagram showing the impact area of ​​the volcanic ash eruption in Changbai Mountain in 946. This eruption is also called the "Millennium Eruption" by academics. Map by @陈志浩/Planetary Research Institute)

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but

Such an eruption is rare in the history of Changbai Mountain.

Not uncommon

What kind of volcano is Changbai Mountain?

Dangerous volcanic eruption

What does it mean to us?

Let's focus first on the deep underground

Finding answers

01

Volcano King

65 million years ago

The Pacific Plate is subducting beneath the Eurasian continent

and stagnated about 600 kilometers underground.

Releases a lot of water

Water lowers the melting point of surrounding rocks

Melting rocks

Produces a lot of magma

(Please watch in horizontal mode, schematic diagram of plate subduction and the origin of Changbai Mountain magma, drawn by @王申雯/Planetary Research Institute)

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Afterwards

The hot magma begins to rise

Gathered at different depths underground

Forming a cystic space

It is the magma chamber

(Schematic diagram of magma movement and magma chamber formation, drawn by @Yang Ning/Planetary Research Institute)

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In the last tens of millions of years

This huge magma system is very active

Erupting all over Northeast China

Triggering repeated volcanic activity

About 5 million years ago

A new round of magma eruption

Appeared in the southeastern part of today's Jilin Province

The Growth of Changbai Mountain

From now on

(Distribution diagram of Changbai Mountain and the Cenozoic volcanic area in Northeast China. The Cenozoic era is the geological period from 66 million years ago to the present. Map by @陈志浩/Planetary Research Institute)

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In the subsequent growth process

Because the properties of magma are constantly changing

The appearance of Changbai Mountain

There have also been major changes

At the beginning of Changbai Mountain

Magma originates directly from deep in the mantle

High temperature, low viscosity, good fluidity

After erupting on the surface, it overflowed everywhere

Even meandering like a river

(The lava fountains and lava flows during the eruption of the Geldingol volcano in Iceland in 2021 are typical scenes of low-viscosity magma eruption. They are for reference only. Image source: @Visual China)

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After a long eruption

Lava flows and accumulates over a large area

A roughly centered on Changbai Mountain

Radius: about 60 km

The area is about 12,000 square kilometers

The lava plateau was formed

(The scope of the lava platform in Changbai Mountain area is shown in the figure; the topography in the figure is the current topography, not the topography when it was just formed, and is only for illustration. Map by @陈志浩/Planetary Research Institute)

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It is the prototype of Changbai Mountain

Today

It is already covered with green trees.

But we can still

In a few deep valleys

Get a glimpse into the unique landscape of ancient lava terraces

(The basalt columnar joints in Wangtian'e Shiwudaogou are geological structures formed on the ancient lava platform. Photographer: @崔瀚予)

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As time goes by

Subtle changes

Appeared deep underground

Rocks surrounding the magma chamber

Gradually melted by high temperature magma

This results in some new chemical components being added to the magma

As the magma slowly cools down

Some high melting point minerals also crystallize and precipitate first

Settled to the bottom of the magma chamber

These changes

Eventually the magma becomes

Viscosity

(Schematic diagram of magma evolution in a magma chamber. In reality, these processes often occur simultaneously, with no clear order of precedence. Map by @王申雯/Planetary Research Institute)

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Viscous magma

On the already formed lava platform

Ejaculate more violently

Produces a large amount of volcanic ash, volcanic bombs, etc.

Pyroclastics

(The Strombolic eruption of Mount Etna in Sicily, Italy in February 2022. For reference only, the material that fell around the crater is collectively called pyroclastics. Image source: Visual China)

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Lava and pyroclastics

Accumulation near the vent

Gradually forming a cone-shaped mountain

About 3 million and 2 million years ago respectively

Two neighbors who started to form the Changbai Mountain volcano

Wangtian'e Volcano and Paotaishan Volcano

(Distribution of the main volcanoes of the Changbai Mountain volcanic group. Wangtian'e Volcano is located in China, Paotaishan Volcano is located in North Korea, and Changbai Mountain is shared by both countries. Map by @陈志浩/Planetary Research Institute)

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Afterwards

About 1 million years ago

Main nozzle continues to shift

Cone of Changbai Mountain

Beginning to truly emerge in the long river of history

(Schematic diagram of the formation of the Changbai Mountain volcanic cone, drawn by @王申雯/Planetary Research Institute)

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About 50,000 years ago

The tall volcanic cone of Changbai Mountain is roughly formed

At this time it

It should be a cone-shaped volcano more like Mount Fuji

Its summit is over 3,000 meters above sea level.

Relative altitude at least 2500 meters

Even today, it is enough to surpass all the volcanoes in China.

And many traditional mountains

(Japan's Mount Fuji has a typical cone-shaped shape, picture source @Visual China)

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But this scene did not last long

About five million years have passed.

The magma under Changbai Mountain has become

Extremely viscous

The viscous magma keeps rising

Often before it erupts

The top is already cooled first

Like a cork blocking the passage below the crater

then

The gas in the magma has nowhere to go

Accumulation underground

Changbai Mountain

"Super Pressure Cooker"

Finally one day

The pressure of the "pressure cooker" exceeds the limit

The super eruption begins

(In 2015, the Calbuco volcano in Chile erupted, and volcanic ash rushed to an altitude of 20km. It was a Plinian eruption. It is just for illustration. The super eruption in the history of Changbai Mountain was much larger than this one. Image source: Visual China)

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Gas carrying magma rushes into the blue sky

Magma turns into tiny droplets

Cools into fine volcanic ash

And other high temperature debris, gas

Volcanic eruption column

Soaring tens of thousands of meters into the sky

Lasts for hours or days

Until the underground gas is completely released

When the volcanic eruption column loses its momentum

Huge amounts of debris fall from high altitude to the surface

Accumulated around the crater

Transformed into loose and porous pumice

(Tianwen Peak on the north side of Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain. The gray-yellow mountain is pumice accumulated after an ancient super-eruption, mixed with black lava fragments. Photographer @邱会宁)

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More ash

Then it pours down the mountain

Turned into a burning torrent

Rushing in all directions like an avalanche

Pyroclastic flow

(When Mount Sinabung erupted in Indonesia, pay attention to the pyroclastic flow flowing down the ravine on the lower right. This is just for illustration. The pyroclastic flow of the Changbai Mountain eruption in 946 was much larger. Image source: Visual China)

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Everything is

Swallow, bury

Today we can still find it in some valleys of Changbai Mountain.

See thick layers of volcanic debris

(Ancient pyroclastic strata on both sides of the Jinjiang Gorge in Changbai Mountain, photographer @翟东润)

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After a large area of ​​forest was buried

Simmering in volcanic ash at hundreds of degrees

Forming carbonized wood

(Carbonized wood ruins on the southern slope of Changbai Mountain, photographer @朴龙国)

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A supereruption of this magnitude

In the history of Changbai Mountain in the last tens of thousands of years

Not just once

But it recurs

The supereruption is running out of steam

Material above the magma chamber

The huge weight of the mountain loses its support

The rocks around the crater gradually collapsed

Slowly forming a huge caldera

Water storage lake

Tianchi was born

(Schematic diagram of the formation of the crater lake. Changbai Mountain Tianchi is the crater lake. Map by @王申雯/Planetary Research Institute)

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The Millennium Eruption of 946 AD

It was the most recent super eruption of Changbai Mountain.

Its volcanic eruption column is about 25 kilometers high

Pyroclastic flows sweeping around

Up to 50 km away

Affects an area of ​​nearly 2,430 square kilometers

The flood from Tianchi Lake

The impact will reach further afield

(Sketch of the hazard range of Changbai Mountain pyroclastic flow, drawn by @陈志浩/Planetary Research Institute)

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In the following centuries

Changbai Mountain continued to experience several small eruptions

Finally calmed down temporarily

The conical mountaintop that was once over 3,000 meters high disappeared

Transformed into 16 peaks of about 2,700 meters

With a deep lake

Together they formed

Changbai Mountain as we see it today

(Sketch of the 16 peaks of Changbai Mountain. The names of the 16 peaks were given by Liu Jianfeng of the Qing Dynasty in 1908. At present, the names of some peaks have changed, such as Huagai Peak, which has been called Tianwen Peak. Map by @Chen Zhihao/Planetary Research Institute)

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Super Eruption

Changbai Mountain becomes China's "King of Volcanoes"

Approximately 2700 meters altitude

It also makes Changbai Mountain the highest mountain in Northeast China.

but

Beyond extreme danger

Changbai Mountain calms down temporarily

With its majestic figure

And show it to the world

More beauty

02

Northeast Water Tower

In modern Changbai Mountain

The power of fire has temporarily subsided

The real protagonist on the stage is

water

Changbai Mountain is located near the sea

Deeply influenced by the Pacific Ocean

At an altitude of more than 2,700 meters

Allowing water vapor to condense during the climb

The clouds and mist lingering in the mountains

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the clouds on the top of Changbai Mountain, photographer @卓永生)

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The average annual rainfall here is about 1000 mm.

The top of the mountain can reach up to 1300 mm

Compared with many Jiangnan areas, it is not inferior

It is one of the areas with the most rainfall in Northeast China.

(Annual precipitation distribution in Jilin Province, drawn by @Zhang Wei/Planet Research Institute)

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In addition, Changbai Mountain is located at 42 degrees north latitude.

Winters are long and cold

Under the addition of high altitude and low temperature

Water vapor can quickly freeze into small ice crystals

So the Changbai snow is as fine as powder

The snow is fluffy, dry and heavy

(Snow covered in the Wangtian Scenic Area of ​​Changbai Mountain, image source: @Visual China)

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Snow on the top of the mountain

It can last from October to June of the following year

Up to 9 months

"Changbai"

Perhaps it comes from this

(Changbai Mountain covered in snow, photographer @朴龙国)

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In the rivers and lakes below the mountains

Where the water cannot freeze

It also provides a constant supply of water vapor

Once you encounter the cold branches

They condense on it

Formation of rime

Adding some magical color to Changbai Mountain

(Rime in Changbai Mountain Magic World Scenic Area, photographer @王智超)

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Abundant precipitation

Filling Tianchi Lake

Gradually formed

It is about 4,400 meters long from north to south and about 3,370 meters wide from east to west.

The average depth is 204 meters, and the deepest point is 373 meters.

A huge lake with a total water storage capacity of about 2 billion tons

It is the largest crater lake in China.

And the deepest lake in China

(Comparison of water characteristics between Tianchi and some famous lakes in China, map by @王申雯/Planetary Research Institute)

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On the north side of Tianchi

The lake water flows out from the only gap

Formed Chengcha River

(Landscape of the water outlet of Tianchi Lake in Changbai Mountain, picture source: Visual China)

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But the Chengcha River is very short.

It only flows 1,250 meters before encountering a cliff.

Falling 68 meters

Changbai Waterfall

(Autumn scenery of Changbai Mountain Waterfall, photographer @刘兆明)

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Even in the dead of winter

Tianchi Lake is frozen

But the Chengcha River still flows

Changbai Waterfall continues to surge

(Changbai Waterfall will continue to flow in winter, photographer @任琳)

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Under the waterfall

Water flows through the valleys

Winding down the mountain

Erdaobai River, the source of Songhua River

This is formed

(Erdaobaihe Canyon, photographer @付明泽)

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It is the source of the Songhua River.

Besides this

Changbai Mountain has abundant rainfall

Still on the south slope and east slope

They bred

The Tumen River flows into the Sea of ​​Japan

and the Yalu River that flows into the Yellow Sea

(Diagram of the Changbai Mountain area, only the Yalu River Basin, Tumen River Basin and Heilongjiang River Basin including the Songhua River are marked, map by @Zhang Wei/Planetary Research Institute)

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then

Changbai Mountain was born in a sea of ​​fire

With its own height and offshore advantageous position

Becoming the "Three River Sources" of Northeast China

It is a veritable water tower in Northeast China.

Numerous main streams and tributaries interweave to form a dense water network

While covering a thousand miles, it also formed

Wetlands of all sizes

Lakes of all shapes and sizes

(Lvyuantan, Changbai Mountain, photographer @王智超)

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The water also seeps into the ground

Filtered through volcanic rock layers to become pure

Dissolved from volcanic rocks

Rich in mineral elements such as silicon, calcium, sodium, magnesium, etc.

Forming high-quality metasilicic acid mineral water

(Changbai Mountain Ice Spring, photographer @邵梓轩)

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Abundant water resources

Make this volcano look softer

It nourishes all living things

Continuing the legend of Changbai Mountain

03

Thousands of living beings

Over the past 50,000 years

Creatures around Changbai Mountain

Suffered from volcanic eruptions

Fortunately

After the Millennium Eruption

Large-scale volcanic eruptions no longer occur

The earth destroyed by magma

Gradually recovering

(The ancient lava flow on the northern slope of Changbai Mountain was formed at least 5,000 years ago. The winding mountain road looks very slender against its backdrop. Photographer @线云强)

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After the high temperature volcanic ash cools down

Its loose porous texture

Very conducive to the growth of plant roots

The breeze and the birds bring the seeds of the trees

Tall trees took root and grew in the volcanic ash.

No need for pioneer vegetation such as lichens and mosses

The ecosystem can be quickly rebuilt

(La Palma volcano in Spain, forests quickly recovered on the volcanic ash produced by ancient eruptions. This phenomenon only occurs in places where volcanic ash is widely covered. For rocky mountains formed by cooling lava, lichens and mosses are still needed to transform the rocks into soil first. For reference only, source: Visual China)

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The flowing water dissolves the rich

Potassium, calcium, magnesium and other nutrients

For plant absorption and growth

So in the barren land covered with volcanic ash

The trees are growing stronger and stronger

(On both sides of the Jinjiang Grand Canyon on the west slope of Changbai Mountain, volcanic ash layers accumulated during ancient super eruptions are exposed, and forests thrive on the volcanic ash. Photographer @邵梓轩)

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After the first trees have established themselves

Litter accelerates the transformation of volcanic ash

Severe winter weather

It is difficult for microorganisms to decompose it completely

Thus, a large amount of humus is accumulated

They are combined with volcanic ash

Complex physical and chemical reactions

On the one hand, it accelerates the decomposition of volcanic ash

Prompts the release of various elements

On the other hand, the texture of volcanic ash is constantly changing

Forming a more loose, breathable and water-permeable soil

Afterwards

The forest is like a green wave

Spread again

The Changbai Forest Reappears

(The underground forest on the northern slope of Changbai Mountain grows in a valley destroyed by volcanic ash, photographer @乔力)

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Changbai Mountain

From silence to vitality

Different plant communities

Four vegetation zones are formed at different altitudes

(Looking at Changbai Mountain from a distance, you can see the changes in tree species in the forest as the altitude increases, until it finally disappears. Photographer @陆雨春)

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Below 1100 meters above sea level

Red pine, sand pine, white birch, etc. are widely distributed here

Coniferous and broad-leaved mixed forest belt

Colorful autumn season

It’s the most beautiful time of the year

(Mixed coniferous and broad-leaved forest, photographer @邵梓轩)

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1100-1800 meters above sea level

Temperatures have dropped

Spruce, fir, and pine are the dominant species here.

Dark coniferous forest belt

Pines and fir trees stand upright, mosses are everywhere

(Dark coniferous forest, photographer @朴龙国)

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1800-2100 meters above sea level

Birch forest belt

It's getting colder here

There are strong winds from time to time

Annual average wind speed 6-8m/s

The number of days with strong winds above level 8 may reach more than 200 days

Strong westerly winds bend the trees

Like a forest dancer

Swaying posture, smart and elegant

(Yue birch forest, the Yue birch forest on Changbai Mountain is the most widely distributed in China, photographer @李星志)

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Above 2100 meters above sea level

It is the coldest area in Changbai Mountain.

The wind is strongest here.

For example, mountain tops above 2,400 meters

The number of days with strong winds above level 8 can reach more than 280 days

Small shrubs and mosses and lichens are the main vegetation types.

Alpine tundra

Summer is here and flowers are blooming

The Tianchi Lake is even more dazzling

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Tianchi Lake and flowers on the tundra, photographer @宋延文)

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The Changbai Mountain is surrounded by mountains.

Many endemic and rare species

Brought here

(Changbai pine, also known as beauty pine, was originally a national first-class protected wild plant. Later, due to proper protection and rapid recovery of its number, it was adjusted to second-class in September 2021. Photographer @邵梓轩)

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The lush vegetation also attracts animals.

Vast horizontal and vertical space

It provides a variety of habitats

Therefore, rare birds often stay on the treetops

(Hazel Grouse, photographer @朴龙国)

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There are also strange beasts walking in the woods

(Sika deer, photographed in Changbai Mountain, photographer @高鹏飞)

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Many animals

Choose activities during warmer seasons

Avoid the long and harsh winter

(Chinese merganser, photographer @冯江)

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But the long and severe cold

Also let the creatures of Changbai Mountain

Evolved various skills to keep warm

Like thick fat

Like warm fur

(A Siberian tiger, photographed at Hengdaohezi Siberian Tiger Park, for reference only; wild Siberian tigers were once widely distributed in Changbai Mountain, but are now only distributed in the Laoyeling area of ​​a branch of Changbai Mountain, which is the only existing habitat for wild Siberian tigers in my country. The Siberian Tiger and Leopard National Park has been established here. Photographer: @李璐)

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The higher the altitude, the colder the climate

The more obvious these characteristics are

The plump and furry appearance makes people feel warm

Sable

(Sable, photographer @孙晓宏)

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For example, in the birch forest belt and the alpine tundra belt

Alpine pika

(Alpine pika, photographer @王智超)

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Rich and diverse animals

Make Changbai Mountain's ecology more active

According to incomplete statistics

There are 2,277 species of wild plants in Changbai Mountain Nature Reserve and Development Zone

Including 1727 species of higher plants

Accounting for more than 70% of the Northeast region

1,225 species of wild animals

Including 370 species of vertebrates

About 70% of Jilin Province

Many of these rare species are hard to find.

(Some rare animals in Changbai Mountain Nature Reserve and Development Zone are shown here. Animals photographed in Changbai Mountain include sika deer, sable, Chinese merganser, black bear, brown bear, otter, red deer, sparrowhawk, and goshawk. The rest are for illustration. Map by @Luo Zihan/Planetary Research Institute. Photographers by @Li Lu, Park Longguo, Cheng Bin, Feng Jiang, Liu Lu, Xingzhi-Natural Image China, Xi Zhinong-Wild China, Xie Zhenqing, Shang Rui, and Xu Yongchun)

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that's all

Changbai Mountain returns to peace

Blooming with vitality again

but

Changbai Mountain will not be peaceful forever

Extremely dangerous and extremely beautiful

Will always be together

04

The future of the holy mountain

Rich natural resources

Let the Changbai Mountain Range with Changbai Mountain as its main peak

Since ancient times, the people of Northeast China have

A place where life thrives

(Tombs under the Maru Mountain City. Maru Mountain City is one of the most typical early and middle mountain cities in the Goguryeo era. It is located in Ji'an City, Tonghua City, Jilin Province, on Maru Mountain in the Changbai Mountains. Photographer @孙洪国)

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Manchus in the Qing Dynasty

Changbai Mountains are also regarded as the "Dragon Vein"

Its status was unprecedented in the Qing Dynasty.

The Qing Dynasty rulers adopted a policy of banning Changbai Mountain.

This also made Changbai Mountain

Maintaining relatively original natural features

At the beginning of the founding of New China

In order to build a country that needs to be rebuilt

Northeastern woodlands including Changbai Mountain Forest

Suffered varying degrees of deforestation

But soon

People realize the significance of protecting the unique ecology of Changbai Mountain

Changbai Mountain Nature Reserve was established in 1960

For us today

Preserve a relatively pristine Changbai Mountain

(Changbai Mountain and Baekdu Mountain Biosphere Reserves. Changbai Mountain and Baekdu Mountain Biosphere Reserves were approved to join the World Biosphere Reserve Network established by UNESCO in 1979 and 1989 respectively. Map by @Zhang Wei/Planet Research Institute)

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Persistent protection

In return, Changbai Mountain has a unique scenery unlike any other mountain.

A large number of tourists are attracted to this

Influx

People come here

Feel the beauty of Tianchi Garden

(Tianchi Lake and flowers by the lake, photographer @常建儒)

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Feel the heat of the volcano

(Julong Hot Spring and tourists at the north slope of Changbai Mountain, photographer @胡英飚)

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Feel the mystery of the primeval forest

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Changbai Mountain forest in autumn, photographer @付明泽)

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Also in winter

Facing the challenge of severe cold

Embrace the most extreme white snow on this mountain

Feel the wildness of Changbai Mountain

(Please watch in horizontal mode, winter scene of Changbai Mountain, photographer @任琳)

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The beautiful scenery of Changbai Mountain makes people linger

But under the beautiful appearance

Dangers still lurk

To monitor the future eruption risk of Changbai Mountain

People in 1999

Established Changbai Mountain Volcano Monitoring Station

And continue to improve monitoring equipment and strength

Allowing scientists to listen to the "pulse" deep in Changbai Mountain

Anticipating an eruption

Develop disaster prevention and mitigation strategies for eruptions

(Sketch of Changbai Mountain Monitoring Station Network, drawn by @Zhang Wei/Planetary Research Institute)

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In the following years 2002-2005

Scientists have discovered

Micro-earthquakes in Changbai Mountain are becoming more frequent

Increased volcanic gas release

The mountain has slightly deformed

Even the spring water temperature has increased

These are all signs of renewed underground magma activity.

(Julong Hot Spring on the north slope of Changbai Mountain. Monitors at Changbai Mountain regularly check the temperature of the spring water. Photographer: @张扬)

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Although Changbai Mountain eventually returned to peace

But we can't relax.

Because we can’t predict

When will it be in the future?

Once again showing the primitive power deep within the earth

(The scene of Changbai Mountain in early winter, photographer @仁甲见)

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We can only strengthen the research and monitoring of Changbai Mountain

With the protection of science

Only in this way can we have less fear and anxiety in the face of the unknown.

Stay calm in the face of disasters

and minimize the damage caused by volcanic eruptions

(On October 30, 2021, after the eruption of La Palma volcano in Spain, houses and villages were buried in volcanic ash, for illustration only, picture source @Visual China)

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Changbai Mountain

This is the tallest active volcano in China

This Northeast Water Tower feeds countless lives

This is a mountainous area with a myriad of beautiful scenery.

It is so lovable

But it makes people so scared

because

Extreme danger creates extreme beauty

It may also be beautiful at any time

Burn it

But maybe this is

Nature

(Please watch in horizontal mode, overlooking Changbai Mountain, photographer @卓永生)

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This article was created by

Written by: Shanyuelou Edited by: Yunwukongcheng, Director

Image: Pan Chenxia Map: Chen Zhihao, Zhang Wei

Design: Wang Shenwen, Luo Zihan, Yang Ning

Reviewers: Yunwukongcheng, Zuokou, Quasimodo by the River, Chen Jingyi

Head photo, cover photographer: Renjia Kankan

Special thanks

Changbai Mountain Photographers Association

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