Today, unlock another beauty of Xinjiang

If returning to the ocean is the ultimate fate of rivers

Well, there is a river that is doomed to fail.

It is located in Xinjiang, my country.

Tarim River

(Overlooking the Tarim River, photographer @文兴华)

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2179 km long body

Let it rush down from the mountains and valleys

Galloping thousands of miles in the vast desert

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the location and water system of the Tarim River are shown in the figure. Map by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute)

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For the Yellow River

Its main stream has less water volume

But it can also be called the Mother River

(Please watch in horizontal screen, Tarim River in Aral City, photographer @文兴华)

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For the Yangtze River

It's only one-third of his length.

It nourishes more than 1 million square kilometers of land.

(The Korla pear orchard irrigated by the water of Kongque River, photographer @王汉冰)

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What kind of river is this?

What kind of story is happening?

01

Breaking through the mountains

Like many large rivers,

The story of the Tarim River also originated from the top of the mountain

In the southwest of Xinjiang

Karakoram Mountains

Stretching across the land from northwest to southeast

The birth of mountains over 8,000 meters

Standing like a guard at the border of our country

(Hotan County overlooking the Karakoram Mountains, photographer @陈剑峰)

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in

The most famous is the second highest peak in the world

K2

Its 8611-meter tall stature

The Karakoram Mountains are the second highest mountain range in the world.

(K2, photographer @张诚心)

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What is more prominent is

The majestic mountains gave birth to the earth

The most dense super glacier

(Overlooking the Chogori Glacier, photographer @王梓轩)

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On the southeast side of Mount K2

More than a dozen glaciers cascade down from the top of the mountain, creating a spectacular sight

This is one of the main sources of the Tarim River.

The starting point of the Yarkand River

(Please watch in horizontal screen, the barrier lake at the end of the Telamukanli Glacier in the upper reaches of the Yarkand River, photographer @Hao Pei)

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When the temperature rises

A large number of glaciers began to melt and converge

Plus a small amount of atmospheric precipitation

The Yarkand River took on its original appearance

At this time it

As tender as a newborn baby

Flowing carefully in the mountains

(The Keleqing River in the upper reaches of the Yarkand River, photographer @Hao Pei)

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Afterwards

With the injection of meltwater from many glaciers along the way

The Yarkand River began to grow

Growing into a young river

Not only full of energy, but also more courageous

It rushes among the mountains

Keep cutting down

Opened up a canyon

(Tasha Ancient Road and the Yarkand River flowing through the canyon, photographer @阿石)

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In the canyon

It may twist itself into a "rope"

Break through the broken rocks and move forward

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the turbulent Yarkand River in the canyon, photographer @小强先森)

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Or in the wide, flat valley floor

Slow down and stretch

Spread your hair into braids

(Yerqiang River in Qipan Township, Yecheng, photographer @Hao Pei)

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To show high profile

The Yarkand River is in the valley

It nourishes the forests

When autumn comes

Snow-white mountains, blue rivers and golden woods

Together they form a magnificent landscape painting

(Tashikurgan River in autumn. The Taxkurgan River is the main tributary of the Yarkand River. Photographer: @笑飞雪)

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at the same time

Due to the development of alpine glaciers

In the surrounding mountains

Many rivers like Yarkand

Also jumping for joy

Kashgar River from the Pamir Plateau

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Kizilsu River Valley, Kizilsu River is an upper tributary of Kashgar River, photographer @魏建国)

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Aksu River in Tianshan Mountains

The Hotan River and the Keriya River in the Kunlun Mountains

(The Karakax River in the valley, the Karakax River is the main upstream of the Hotan River, picture source @Visual China)

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Like other rivers in the

Yarkand and its companions

I also dream of one day being able to flow into the sea

At all costs, break through the mountains

final

In Shache County

Yarkand finally freed itself from the shackles of the mountains

Completed the most difficult challenge

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the exit of the Yarkand River, near the Altash Hydropower Station, photographer @刘耕新)

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However

What it never expected was

The mountains that gave birth to me

It actually killed the Tarim Basin in front of us

now

What appeared before it was another world.

China's largest desert

Taklimakan

This place is shrouded in drought all year round

The average annual precipitation is only 23 mm

The evaporation volume is as high as 3800mm

As far as the eye can see

Yellow sand everywhere, lifeless

(Taklimakan Desert, photographer @张扬小强)

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Yarkand hesitated

In fact, it is not only Yarkand

The rivers rushing here from the surrounding mountains hesitated.

They couldn't believe what they saw.

I can't even imagine what the future will bring.

But soon they made a brave decision

Use your own power to change everything

02

Break out of the oasis

The first thing that the rivers think of is to spread themselves as far as possible.

Nourishing more land

They use the natural terrain difference at the exit of the mountain

Slow down the flow and stretch your body

Make the water flow in all directions

As a result, the debris carried by the river is deposited in large quantities.

The alluvial fan is born

As their range gradually expands and connects with each other

Alluvial fans

Aerial view

On the edge of the Tarim Basin

Alluvial fans of various sizes cover the ground

Spectacular

(Please watch in horizontal screen, Karakoram Mountains and alluvial fans in front of the mountains, photographer @陈剑峰)

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The efforts of the rivers finally paid off.

In Kashgar area

Large areas of land are covered by alluvial fans

Nourished by the running water, it began to become moist

(Alluvial fan in Kashgar area, photographer @柴江辉)

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then

Organisms begin to gather

From the tall tree Populus euphratica

to dwarf shrubs such as Tamarix, Calligonum, and Camel Thorn

Then to the Suaeda salsa and Salsola salsa that are attached to the surface

Dozens of plant species choose to thrive here

(Calligonum mongolicum on the Gobi Desert, image source: Visual China)

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Goitered gazelle, Tarim rabbit

White-tailed crows, sandgrouse and other animals

Also settled here

Oasis is born

(Goitered gazelle in the Taklimakan Desert, photographer @邓建中)

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Then, humans were attracted.

3000 years ago

The earliest settlements appeared in Kashgar

However, due to the low production level

Valleys that are easy to defend became the first choice for settlements.

With the continuous development of agriculture

During the Han Dynasty, people went downstream

Arriving at the oasis in front of the mountain

The Kashgar region officially entered an era of large-scale settlement and farming.

(Apricot Blossom Village in Pamir, Kashgar region, photographer @Hao Pei)

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After Zhang Qian "opened up" the Western Regions

Here comes the most glorious moment

As a key area of ​​the Silk Road

Kashgar connects people from the East and the West

and all kinds of civilizations

Writing your own history

(Kashgar Ancient City, Photographer @林北岸)

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After the Tang Dynasty

Construction of water conservancy projects

and the great progress of agricultural production tools

The settlement has penetrated deep into the heart of the oasis.

And gradually expanded to the downstream area of ​​the river

(Distribution of settlements in Kashgar region in different historical periods, map by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute)

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Today

Kashgar Oasis relies on its rich resources and developed agriculture

It has become an important city in southern Xinjiang.

besides

At the foot of Kunlun Mountain

The turquoise and pure Hotan River

(Hotan River and the oasis along the coast, photographer @陈剑峰)

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The winding Keriya River

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Keriya River and the oasis along the coast, photographer @李钟鸣)

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The Cherchen River

Arranged from west to east

The oasis it forms

They are like pieces of jasper inlaid on the edge of the Tarim Basin.

(Cherchen River in Qiemo County after being washed away by mountain torrents, image source: @Visual China)

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They did it

The rivers use their bodies

Watering a new world full of vitality

This land is being changed

then

They continued to advance into the depths of the desert with confidence.

Yarkand gradually lost its childishness and recklessness in the canyon.

Growing into a river of youth

Different from the exit

The relatively flat terrain in the desert

This made Yarkand slow down his pace.

It stretches its body and changes constantly

Swinging out a fairly wide river

(Yarkand River in winter, image source: Visual China)

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Along the coast, wolfberry, sea buckthorn fruit

Cotton and other crops cover the land

Wetlands, poplar forests and deserts complement each other

(Please watch in horizontal mode, cotton rolls waiting to be transported in the cotton field, photographer @莲漾de)

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The Kashgar River is equally unyielding.

A large oasis was created between the Tianshan Mountains and the Pamir Plateau.

People live and work here

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the main urban area of ​​Kashgar and the Kashgar River, photographer @张称心)

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But the bravest one is Hetian River

From south to north, alone

Across the desert

(Hotan River in the Taklimakan Desert, photographer @陈剑峰)

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But unfortunately

Due to high evaporation and low river flow

Several rivers, including the Keriya River

Gradually overdrawn, and eventually cut off

So the rivers discovered

How to create an oasis by working alone

Only a small desert can be changed

Want a bigger transformation

Unity is needed

03

Converging into a river

In Alaer City, Xinjiang

The Yarkand River flows for nearly a thousand kilometers

I tried my best

Finally collapsed on the ground

(A reservoir near the end of the Yarkand River, photographer @Qiu Mingjiang)

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Fortunately

The Hotan River, heading north, arrived in time

With the strongest reinforcements rushing down from Tianshan

The Aksu River is full of

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the confluence of the Aksu River and the Hotan River @肖玉磊)

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Since then

A river that runs across the desert and creates miracles

Tarim River

Born

(Aerial photography of the Tarim River, photographer @赵来清)

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Aerial view

The calm and clear rivers merge

The sky is very blue

(Tarim River Poplar Forest in Autumn, Photographer @阿石)

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The shore is shaded by green trees and lush grass

If you hadn't seen it with your own eyes

It is hard to imagine such a landscape appearing in the desert

The Tarim River always brings miracles

(Tarim River in Luntai, photographer @Hao Pei)

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The converging rivers have regained their vitality

The abundant water volume makes it have a wider and larger body.

The flat terrain adds more peace and stability to it.

The Tarim River has entered its prime since then.

In the desert

Since the riverbed and coastal sediments are relatively soft, they are easily washed away.

The river is swaying violently

In Shaya County and Luntai County

Tarim River

Draw beautiful curves on the earth

(Please watch in horizontal screen, Tarim River, photographer @文兴华)

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When it is so curved that the concave banks are connected

The river is "straightened"

The original river channel is gradually abandoned

Forming a lake shaped like an oxbow

Oxbow Lake

(Schematic diagram of the formation of oxbow lake, drawn by @Badanmu/Planetary Research Institute)

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then

Semicircular lakes of various sizes dot the banks of the Tarim River

And surrounded by Populus euphratica

It has become a rare beautiful scenery in the desert

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Tarim River, photographer @王汉冰)

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At this time, the Tarim River

And found a new way to fight the desert

summer

Higher temperatures cause upstream glaciers to melt rapidly

Increased river recharge

In addition, the occasional precipitation caused by water vapor

The Tarim River has experienced significant changes in flood and dry seasons

Whenever a flood comes

It allows the water to rush out of the river channel and overflow everywhere

Covering more land

More likely to open up new channels

Causes river to change course

(Tarim River flood, photographer @邹懿)

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This allows a larger area of ​​the desert to be nourished by water.

At the same time

Running water can also continuously seep into the ground to replenish groundwater.

Providing possibilities for life in the surrounding areas and even other areas

(The original Populus euphratica forest in the lower reaches of Tarim in Yuli County, Xinjiang, photographer @王汉冰)

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When it encounters a low-lying area

It can also breed small lakes and wetlands

In Yuli County

Lop Nur National Wetland Park is located in the middle

Aerial view

Lakes, wetlands and river beaches are connected

Like a gorgeous carpet spread across the earth

(Luobu Nur Wetland, photographer @桃叔)

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autumn

Flocks of migratory birds

Playing and foraging on the turquoise water

The reeds and poplar trees complement each other

Forming a vibrant picture

(Lop Nur Wetland in autumn, photographer @王汉冰)

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So far

The desert has undergone tremendous changes due to the arrival of the Tarim River.

Here not only grows an endless oasis

It also gave birth to a unique civilization

However

This battle with the desert

Is the Tarim River really the final winner?

04

Into the Desert

In the eastern part of the Tarim Basin

A lowland shaped like an ear appeared on the ground

This is the famous Lop Nur

Its appearance also heralds the former glory of the Tarim River.

(Remote sensing image of Lop Nur in 2014, image source: @NASA)

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Thousands of years ago

The lowest point in the basin

At that time, Lop Nur inherited the Tarim River

Many rivers including the Cherchen River and the Peacock River

The lake is vast

The maximum area can reach 10,000 square kilometers

More than twice the size of today's Qinghai Lake

(Dragon City Yadan in Lop Nur, photographer @钱玮)

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The abundant water resources gave birth to the famous ancient city of Loulan

It has not only become the throat fortress of the Silk Road

Indian Buddhism, Greek Art

Oriental brocade is also boldly integrated here

Together they created an unprecedented "international" kingdom

(Ruins of the ancient city of Loulan, photographer @郝沛)

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at the same time

The Tarim River used to be divided into two parts, north and south.

The Beihe River is close to today's river channel.

The South River is fed by the Hotan River, the Keriya River, and the Cherchen River.

Through the heart of the desert

Finally arrived at Lop Nur in the east

(Illustration of the evolution of the Tarim River system. Since there is no exact history of the evolution of the northern river, the following figure uses the location of the modern river for illustration only. The picture focuses on the evolution of the southern river. Map by @吴昕恬/星球研究院)

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But then

As the climate becomes drier

In addition, the terrain difference between the south and north of the basin is high.

Not only does the South River gradually move northwards and merge with the North River

The Tarim River has also completely left Lop Nur

In fact

Start from Yuli County

Today, the Tarim River has lost the support from the Tianshan River.

Advancing deeper into the desert alone

Due to the influence of strong evaporation and strong infiltration

Plus less supplies

The once high-spirited young man

It seems that he has entered his twilight years

In the river

The roaring river is replaced by a calm trickle

The overflowing yellow sand is scattered around

It seems like it will swallow up the water at any time

(Dried-up river and poplar forest, picture source: Visual China)

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Outside the river

There are scattered poplar trees dotted on it.

Low scrub and grasses occupy large areas of land.

(The dried-up Tarim River, photographer @刘辰)

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But the story doesn't end there

1950s

Due to the large-scale land and water development in the upper reaches of the Tarim River

The amount of water downstream is decreasing.

Until the 1970s

321 kilometers of river course from Daxihaizi Reservoir

Completely cut off the flow

Taitema Lake dried up, and a large number of poplar trees on both sides died

People are forced to migrate

Many town ruins are left behind

Becoming one "Loulan" after another

(Yingsu Village Ruins, image source @Visual China)

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then

A battle to defend the river has begun

Beginning of this century

Millions of acres of farmland along the Tarim River

Carry out water-saving renovation projects

(Drip irrigation in sandy land in Qiemo County, image source: @Visual China)

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More than 20 ecological water transfers

Let it completely get rid of the predicament of interruption

Renewal and restoration of large areas of vegetation such as Populus euphratica

Revitalize the downstream

(Tarim River Poplar Forest, Photographer @文兴华)

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Today

Taitema Lake, located in the tail of the river, has an area of ​​more than 300 square kilometers.

The lake is covered with reeds and poplar trees.

Above the lake

Wild animals such as wild ducks and waterfowl roam freely

(Taitema Lake, photographer @文兴华)

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05

end

If a river's ultimate destiny is to flow into the ocean

Then, the Tarim River is doomed to fail.

But isn’t failure worth remembering?

Once it was as innocent as a child

Traveling among the mountains

Fantasy of a future that rushes into the sea

(Aoyitaq Scenic Area in Kashgar Prefecture, photographer @尘月RoyChen)

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But when we got out of the mountain, we ran into a desert with no grass growing on it.

From then on, it was given a new mission

then

It breaks out of the oasis and breeds civilization

(Oasis along the Tarim River, photographer @姚远)

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Also call friends to gather strength

But in the end, the desert was no match for him.

(The dry Yarkand River, picture source: Visual China)

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Maybe for it

This is another way of rivers flowing into the sea.

It's just that the "sea" here refers to the sea of ​​sand.

As China's largest inland river

The Tarim River today

Relying on the power of technology and transportation

Turn the rushing water into fragrant fruits

Into the lights of thousands of houses

(Fruits in Kashgar, image source: Visual China)

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It also turns into soft cotton and is worn on the body.

(Mechanized cotton harvesting, image source: @Visual China)

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It can also be transformed into delicious food and go global

(On January 15, 2023, fishermen were conducting winter fishing on the ice of Bosten Lake in Bohu County. Image source: @Visual China)

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We who live in the East

Maybe the distance makes it never appear in your mind

Maybe you've never seen it.

But it’s always with us.

(Showing the specialties of the Tarim River Basin, pictures from @吴静,雷彬,王警,奎涛,Visual China, and drawn by @巴丹木/星球研究院)

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This article was created by

Written by Shi Xiaofei

Editor: Yunwukongcheng

Image: Zhang Zhaohai

Design: Almond Map: Wu Xintian

Reviewer: Li Chuyang & Wang Luzhi & Song Nan

Cover & head photo photographer: Liu Chen & Zhao Laiqing

【References】

[1] Zhang Yonglei, Chen Yaning, Yang Yuhai, et al. Analysis of historical changes and driving forces of the Tarim River channel [J]. Arid Land Geography, 2016, 39(03): 582-589.

[2] Cheng Qichou. Research on Tarim River[M]. Hohai University Press, 1993.

[3] Chen Hongchuan, Li Jiang, Zheng Gang, et al. Evaluation of the implementation effect of the recent comprehensive management plan for the Tarim River Basin [J]. Water Resources Planning and Design, 2023, (10): 6-10.

[4] Deng Mingjiang. Research and practice of ecological water transfer and ecological restoration of the Tarim River[J]. China Water Resources, 2022, (19): 29-32.

[5] Song Yudong, Fan Zili, et al. Research on water resources and ecological issues of the Tarim River in China [J]. Xinjiang People's Publishing House, 2000.

[6] Chen Yaning, Zhang Xiaolei, Zhu Xiangmin, et al. Analysis of ecological effects of water transfer in the dry channel of the lower reaches of the Tarim River in Xinjiang [J]. Chinese Science (Series D: Earth Sciences), 2004.