Only by understanding the mountains and rivers of Hunan can we understand what Hunan is all about.

Red pepper is the soul of Hunan

Red firecrackers are a specialty of Hunan

The Red Revolution is the History of Hunan

Hunan in our impression

It always seems to be hot and lively

(Fireworks at Orange Island in Changsha, Hunan, photographer @郑晓光)

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The one that made all this happen

Hunan's open and wide terrain

Surrounded by mountains on three sides and blocked by Dongting Lake on one side

Surrounding Hunan into an independent world

(Hunan's location and topography, drawn by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute)

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However, in the closed world

It also breeds the power to resist closure

Crowds of people throughout the ages

Breaking through the barriers of mountains and rivers

Gathering and blending in the land of Hunan

It is they who gradually break through the geographical limitations

Break out into a fiery world

Understanding the Mountains and Rivers of Hunan

Understand Hunan

(Scenery of Hengshan Mountain in Hunan, photographer @罗铭)

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01

Origin of Dongting Lake

Hunan's topography

Mountains from the east, south and west

All the way down to the northernmost depression

In this depression

It covers an area of ​​more than 2,000 square kilometers.

The second largest freshwater lake in China

Dongting Lake

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Yueyang, Hunan, Yueyang Tower and Dongting Lake, picture source: Visual China) ▼

More than 1500 mm of precipitation per year

Converges into 5341 rivers of various sizes

Together they nurtured it

They follow the slope of the terrain

Converging from the east, south and west to the north

Most rivers flow into

Xiangjiang River, Zishui River, Yuanjiang River, Lishui River

Then it flows into Dongting Lake from different directions.

Forming a centripetal water system with Dongting Lake as the center

(Sketch of Hunan's water system, drawn by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute) ▼

This big lake

For most of history

Daunting

Confining Hunan to the south of the Great Lakes

(From Fan Zhongyan's "Yueyang Tower")

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Heavy rains, no moon

The wind howled, the waves emptied

The sun and stars are hidden, the mountains are hidden

Business travel is not going well, masts are tilted and oars are broken

Until the early Qing Dynasty

Hunan scholars are going to Hubei to take the imperial examinations

All because of the obstruction of the wind and waves of Dongting Lake

The number is far less than that of Hubei candidates

But the Dongting Lake system floods year after year.

It also created most of the major plains in Hunan.

Dongting Lake Plain

Among them, the Liyang Plain on the west bank of the lake

Adjacent to the ancient transportation route

The Jianghan Plain, the heartland of Chu culture to the north of Dongting Lake

Connected to Hunan to the south of Dongting Lake

Naturally becoming the place where civilization sprouted

(Location, topography and main channels of Dongting Lake, map by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute) ▼

Although this land is flat

But it is often flooded

The land is low and wet, making it difficult to cultivate

Fortunately, the ancestors of the Dongting Lake Plain

Gradually mastered the rice planting technology

This new crop can grow in shallow water

It is also suitable for the heavy rain and scorching heat in Hunan in summer.

One of the earliest rice farming in China

Born on the shore of Dongting Lake

(Please watch in horizontal mode, rice fields in the Dongting Lake Plain, photographer @蓑笠张) ▼

Since then

Rice officially becomes the absolute staple food in Hunan

Rice flour processed from rice

It has become one of the most classic delicacies in Hunan.

The first thing many Hunanese do when they return home

Just eat a bowl of rice noodles with the taste of hometown

(Hunan rice noodles, photographer @彭三花, map @李雪茜/Planet Research Institute) ▼

Hunanese people eat rice

Created a home by the Dongting Lake

The first place where rice was grown on a large scale

They founded one of the earliest cities in China

Chengtoushan Ancient City

(Hunan Li County, the ancient city ruins of Chengtoushan with a circular moat and the fertile Liyang Plain, photographer @君作刀) ▼

Later, immigrants from the north

They will also enter the heart of Hunan from here in batches.

They not only bring about the fusion of people and culture

It also brings new technologies

Approximately the same period as the Xia and Shang dynasties in the Central Plains

Early Civilization in Hunan

It also ushered in the glorious Bronze Age

They are huge in size and magnificent in imagination.

Unique in the country

(Some bronze artifacts in Hunan, image source: @Visual China & Willow Leaf Deuterium, map by @Li Xueqian/Planet Research Institute) ▼

Warring States Period

Hunan became the southern frontier of Chu State

Qu Yuan , a native of Chu, was banished to Hunan

In the eyes of this Chu man who traveled all over Hunan,

There are many exotic flowers and plants here, and wild animals are rampant.

Most people worship witchcraft

In the mysterious and moving prayer song

Everything in the world has spirituality

(Please watch horizontally, Hunan Shennong rain-seeking dance performance, just for illustration, photographer @尹忠)

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Unique and magnificent early culture of Hunan

In the course of history, it gradually disappeared into the mountains.

Or integrate into mainstream culture

Decades after Qu Yuan committed suicide

The Chu State also fell to the Qin State

Hunan and China have both ushered in an era of great unification

It is also the need for national unity

Will bring a turning point to Hunan in a new direction

02

Communication with Nanling

In the fine hills at the southern end of Hunan

There are several steep mountains named " Ling "

From west to east they are called

Yuechengling, Dupangling, Mengzhuling, Qitianling

and Dayuling Mountain outside Hunan

They are collectively called the " Five Ridges ",**also known as the " Nanling Mountains ".

It forms the southern boundary of Hunan Province.

(The sea of ​​clouds at Mangshan in Chenzhou among the Nanling Mountains, photographer @咏物无声) ▼

The north side of this range of mountains

The Xiangjiang River system is connected to the Yangtze River.

To the south is the Pearl River system

Therefore, the " Lingnan " area to its south

It has been a relatively independent geopolitical plate since ancient times.

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Nanling's location, terrain and main channels, map by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute) ▼

Fortunately

Nanling also gave birth to an open channel in a closed environment

In addition to the five independent, towering "ridges"

Most of the area is covered with relatively gentle hills.

Danxia landforms scattered among them

It looks like a group of mountains and forests, but the height difference is only two or three hundred meters

(Langshan Danxia landform, picture source @Visual China) ▼

There are also more gentle valleys

The river is winding and the village is peaceful

Lovely karst peaks dot the landscape

(Karst landform of Yongzhou Ningyuan Shili Gallery, photographer @郑可) ▼

One of the most important valleys

Now it belongs to Xing'an County, Guangxi , near Hunan

Upper Xiang River and Upper Li River

Meet in the valley of Nanling

As long as you cross the watershed less than 200 meters above sea level

It can open up Nanling and connect Lingnan

Qin Shihuang sent people to build a canal here called " Lingqu "

As a result, the Qin army was able to enter Lingnan

(Lingqu Canal in Xing'an, Guangxi, photographer @Lu Wen, map @Li Xueqian) ▼

In the next thousand years

Lingqu Canal became the most important channel in Nanling Mountains.

Together with the Xiangjiang River, it forms

A waterway connecting China's north and south

The Xiangjiang River runs through eastern Hunan

With the flow of people, it is becoming more and more prosperous.

(Chenglingji has witnessed the prosperity of Hunan’s water transportation for two thousand years, photographer @蓑笠张) ▼

In order to control Lingnan

Hunan in the Early Western Han Dynasty

A vassal state, Changsha State, was retained for a long time.

People who travel all over the country

Bringing advanced technology and culture

Mawangdui Han Tomb of Changsha

Unearthed silk paintings, silk books and other cultural relics

This is the testimony of this glory

(Mawangdui T-shaped painted silk painting, photographer @柳叶氘, map @李雪茜/Planetary Research Institute) ▼

However, the good times didn’t last long

Political center after the Tang Dynasty

Moved eastward from the Guanzhong Plain to the North China Plain

The sea access was also moved to Guangzhou, which is further east.

The economic center moved eastward to the Jiangnan area.

Jiangxi, which is closer to the eastern region

Replaced Hunan's status as a north-south passage

Meiguan Ancient Road developed by Zhang Jiuling from Guangdong

From Dayuling Mountain between Jiangxi and Guangdong

Open up Nanling again

(Sketch of the changes in the north-south passages in Hunan and Jiangxi, drawn by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute)

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Go south through the Gan River to Jiangxi and enter Lingnan

Became the mainstream for another thousand years

Transfer of North-South Corridor

The status of Jiangxi and Hunan has increased and decreased

Hunan is gradually being left behind by Jiangxi to the east

But this " cousin " who loves and hates Hunan

It will also be in a new direction

Bringing development opportunities to Hunan

03

Crossing Luoxiao

In the east of Hunan

There is also a tall mountain range running north-south.

Luoxiao Mountain

It forms the border between eastern Hunan and Jiangxi

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Dawei Mountain in the northern section of Luoxiao Mountain, photographer @波哥哥Benson)

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Luoxiao Mountain is about 2,000 meters high.

The highest peak in Hunan, Ling Peak, stands here.

Forests, meadows and rhododendron fields

Decorating the tall mountains

But this mountain range does not have a continuous ridge

It consists of branches such as Mufu Mountain, Jiuling Mountain, Wugong Mountain, and Wanyang Mountain.

From north to south, they are arranged like geese

Among them

Basins or valleys

Closely connect eastern Hunan with western Jiangxi

(Location, topography and main passages of Luoxiao Mountain, drawn by @Wu Xintian/Planet Research Institute)

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Since the Tang and Song Dynasties

With the transfer of the north-south channel

The gap between Hunan and Jiangxi is gradually widening

The Jiangxi side is densely populated and has a prosperous culture and economy.

The Hunan side is relatively backward

More land available for development

Luoxiao Mountain

Like a dam that holds back the flow of people

Bearing the growing development gap between the two sides

The dam's gates

It is the tunnel hidden in the mountains.

(Near Dawei Mountain, the lower hilly areas in Luoxiao Mountain form a mountain passage. Photographer @张燮林)

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Since the Song Dynasty, immigrants from Jiangxi

Through these "dam gates"

Like a surging tide, it rushed into Hunan

At the end of the Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, wars frequently affected Hunan

The population has dropped significantly and large tracts of land have been abandoned.

It also triggered a huge wave of immigration

It is called " Jiangxi fills Huguang "

To this day, Hunanese still call Jiangxi people " cousins ".

Because many of their ancestors came from Jiangxi

In many Hunan counties and cities close to Jiangxi

Even the dialect is deeply influenced by Jiangxi

Became the distribution area of ​​Gan language

(Distribution of Gan language in Hunan and the proportion of Jiangxi immigrant clans in some areas, map by @李雪茜&吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute)

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Immigrants have led to a rapid population growth in Hunan

Large tracts of land have been developed

Advanced agricultural technology

Replaced the traditional slash-and-burn farming in the mountains of Hunan

In the mountains such as Xuefeng Mountain

Terraced fields everywhere

(Xuefeng Mountain Ziquejie Terraces, photographer @Yu Lin)

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New population and advanced technology

It also creates higher and higher

Farmland area and food production

"When Huguang is prosperous, the whole world is prosperous"

Gradually spread by word of mouth

(Changsha Jinggang Ancient Town, a rich land of fish and rice, picture source @Visual China)

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Extensive immigration activities

It also brings about the exchange and sharing of technology

Ceramic technology in Liling , Hunan and other places

Close exchanges with Jingdezhen in Jiangxi

Today, China's hometown of fireworks and firecrackers

It is also from the Hunan-Jiangxi border

Shared by Liuyang, Liling, Shangli and Wanzai

Similar cultural genes transcend administrative boundaries

(In Liuyang, Hunan, each small shed connected by a corridor is an independent fireworks workshop. They are built against the mountain to prevent possible explosions from affecting each other. Photographer @姚彦)

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Late Ming and Early Qing

In the tide of immigrants crossing Luoxiao

An obscure American crop

Also enter Hunan from the coastal areas

chili

It quickly conquered the humid and rainy Hunan

Hunan became one of the earliest provinces to popularize chili peppers

Spicy stimulation

Ignite the hard and dull life

It has become an indispensable element in Hunan cuisine.

(Chopped peppers in Hunan, image source: @图虫创意, map by @李雪茜/星球研究院)

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So far, the eastern part of Hunan

Basic development completed

The saturated population in the east began to pass through Xiangxi

Flocking to Yunnan, Guizhou, Sichuan and Chongqing

Also brought the love of chili to half of China

A mountain range in western Hunan

Finally, it will enter the stage of history

04

Develop Wuling

In western Hunan

A vaster and more rugged mountainous area

Covering one third of the province

It is Wuling Mountain

Hidden here

Picturesque landscape of Zhangjiajie

(Zhangjiajie after the snow, the steep peaks seem to float in the clouds, photographer @林祖贤) ▼

There are also Tianmen Mountain and other places

Geological wonders

(Tianmen Cave at the top of Tianmen Mountain is a natural hole formed by karst action, photographer @刘剑伟) ▼

Also due to the closed and backward terrain

The legend of Peach Blossom Spring was left behind

In the long history

It has also been sheltering the various ethnic groups that migrated here.

They blend and evolve to this day

Become a minority group such as Tujia, Miao, Yao, and Dong

It accounts for about one-tenth of Hunan’s population.

(Miao Village in western Hunan, photographer @刘振军) ▼

But Wuling Mountain is like Nanling Mountain and Luoxiao Mountain.

It's not a completely closed place.

Here

The earth is wrinkled like waves

There are many narrow valleys between the mountain ranges.

The Yuan River system runs through the valley.

(Please watch in horizontal mode, Wuling Mountain location, terrain and main passages, map by @吴昕恬/Planet Research Institute) ▼

The Yuan River has many tributaries, known as the " Five Rivers ".

There are Youshui, Chenshui, Wushui, Fushui, Qushui , etc.

They are interspersed in the Wuling Mountains with abundant water.

Forming a secret transportation network

Many tributaries of the Yuan River originate in the hinterland of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau.

It also became an important passage from Hunan to Yunnan and Guizhou.

During the Warring States Period , Zhuang Qiao (Jué) of Chu State entered Yunnan

Emperor Wu of Han ruled the southwest during the Western Han Dynasty

All enter the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau via Xiangxi

Since then, the long-term penetration of Central Plains culture into the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau

Wuling Mountain is also one of the important passages.

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the Aizhai Bridge in Wuling Mountain, the terrain here is no different from the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, photographer @周德成) ▼

The most important development of Wuling Mountain

Occurred during the Ming and Qing dynasties

Previously, the ethnic minorities in the Wuling Mountains

Long-term jurisdiction by local leaders

These leaders were nominally appointed by the central government.

But it maintains a great deal of independence

Since the Yuan and Ming Dynasties, it has been called " Tusi "

(Near Jishou Dehang, the rugged terrain has helped the Xiangxi ethnic minorities maintain a strong independence in history, just for illustration, photographer @刘振军) ▼

Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties

The central government is determined to transfer the chieftains' territory

Incorporated into unified national administration

Send government-appointed officials to move around the country

Replace the hereditary chieftain families

This development was therefore called " reform of the natives "

Wuling Mountain after the Reform of the Land System

It not only reduces political isolation

It also opened up a world of economic and cultural exchanges.

Merchants began to explore Xiangxi

Go upstream along the Yuan River and other rivers

A prosperous commercial town

Rising on the banks of the " Five Rivers " (Furong Town, Xiangxi, photographer @向源翰) ▼

Immigrants from eastern Hunan and Jiangxi

Also began to venture into the mountains of Xiangxi

Finding uncultivated land

(Wulingyuan Old House, photographer @李泳氧) ▼

Specialties of Xiangxi

Such as tung oil, coal, etc.

Also through local and foreign business groups

Down the river

The docks that converge at the lower reaches of the river

(Please watch in horizontal mode, the ancient city of Qiancheng by the Yuan River, photographer @李泳氧) ▼

Wulingyuan surrounded by mountains

From now on, it is no longer just a secluded paradise

Instead, it has become a treasure land of cultural diversity and people's integration.

Even in the depths of Wuling

Phoenix has always been known for its closed-off and tough folk customs.

It is also imbued with a diverse and open cultural atmosphere.

Shen Congwen, Huang Yongyu

Two masters of Chinese culture

It is from this beautiful border town that

(Phoenix Ancient Town, photographer @杨顺韶) ▼

The hardships of life and the adventures of immigrants

Let Hunanese work hard and unite as well as be martial

Closed environment, diverse culture

Hunanese are stubborn and domineering , yet they dare to be the first

Even scholars from Hunan

Also in such an environment

More attention is paid to practical learning that is useful to the world

This is Hunan

It gave birth to a modern explosion

05Break out of the siege

When the time came to the nineteenth century

China faces unprecedented changes in a thousand years

Hunanese living in a corner of the inland

Instead, with passion and courage,

The first to start China's transformation

(Yuelu Academy, the highest institution of learning in ancient Hunan, the words "Only in Chu are there talents, and here they flourish" in front of the gate were not truly confirmed until the late Qing Dynasty. Photographer @赵一杰) ▼

Wei Yuan, who came from the mountains of central Hunan

He wrote " Illustrated Records of Maritime Countries "

First proposed " open your eyes to the world ", leading the national trend

After that, Zeng Guofan, Zuo Zongtang and others

Relying on the Hunan Army to take power

Start of the Westernization Movement

They were not revolutionaries in the standard sense.

It started the modernization process of Hunan

Run schools, newspapers, and factories

Hunan has become the most vibrant province in the country .

It also led China into the door of modernization.

(The former site of Hunan First Normal University, photographer @盛龍) ▼

In the decades that followed

Received new education and revolutionary ideas

Hunan Youth

One after another, they devoted themselves to the cause of saving the country from danger

Tan Sitong from Liuyang, Hunan

Calling for reform

He was finally executed in 1898.

" Every country's reform is achieved through bloodshed...

Yes, please start with Si Tong. "

Under the guidance of Huang Xing, Song Jiaoren, Jiao Dafeng and others

With the participation of Hunanese

The Xinhai Revolution ended China's 2,000-year-old imperial system.

After that, Yuan Shikai restored the monarchy and the revolution fell into crisis again.

It was again Cai E from Hunan who fired the first shot in the national defense movement.

" Fighting for the dignity of 400 million people "

(Representative figures of modern Hunan, map by @李雪茜/Planet Research Institute, Note: Tao Shu was active on the eve of modern times, but had a profound influence on modern Hunan, so he is also included in the map) ▼

From " No Hunan, No Army "

To " If China is to perish, all Hunanese people must die "

Behind the grand declarations and promises

It is the Hunanese people who have made their way to the Three Rivers and Four Rivers.

Carrying the burden of the country

In 1921, the Communist Party of China was founded

Among the more than 50 party members at this time

Hunanese people account for one third of the

In 1924, the Whampoa Military Academy enrolled students

The first batch of students

Hunanese people account for one quarter of the population

Compared with the obscurity of Hunan in the past thousand years

Hunan's characters at this time are like a galaxy of stars.

Especially in the military and political fields, he is unrivaled in the world.

(The proportion of Hunanese people in the important historical figures in different periods, drawn by @李雪茜/Planet Research Institute) ▼

Started in 1927

The Chinese Communist Party's Path to Armed Struggle

During the Nanchang Uprising, the Autumn Harvest Uprising, and the Pingjiang Uprising

And later in the Long March

He Long, Mao Zedong, Peng Dehuai, etc.

Hunan leader with military talent and rebellious spirit

Leading China's revolutionary ship

Breaking through numerous crises and growing stronger

(100 years ago, young Mao Zedong wrote "沁园春·长沙" at the end of Orange Island, photographer @蒋小翼) ▼

Anti-Japanese War

Hunan once again became the front line between the Chinese army and the Japanese invaders

Battle of Changsha, Battle of Changde, Defense of Hengyang ...

In bloody battles, cities were razed to the ground.

Countless Chinese people shed their blood on the land of Hunan

Defending the gateway to the southwest rear area

(Changsha Martyrs Park and Changsha City behind it, photographer @吕券) ▼

Resonating with Hunan’s thriving red history

It is a radical transportation revolution that has broken through the siege

It will have a profound impact on the half century after the war.

Laying the foundation for the new Hunan

At the end of the 19th century, under the efforts of the Hunan reformist elites

The Yuehan Railway connecting Wuhan and Guangzhou

Flowers fall in Hunan

In 1936, the Guangdong-Hankou Railway was fully opened to traffic.

Together with the Beijing-Hankou Railway to the north,

China's most important north-south artery

Beijing-Guangzhou Railway

(Beijing-Guangzhou Railway Hunan Hengyang Section, Photographer @李咸良) ▼

1934

The Red Army withdrew from the Central Soviet Area and began the Long March

After entering Guizhou via Hunan

The Kuomintang reactionaries encircled and suppressed the Red Army

The construction of the Hunan-Guizhou Highway was accelerated

This road did not stop the Red Army

But on the eve of the full-scale war of resistance

Become a key channel for communication between the front line and the rear

After the war, along the road

The construction of Hunan-Guizhou Railway was completed

It is together with the Hunan-Jiangxi Railway on the east side.

It forms the most important east-west artery in southern China.

Shanghai-Kunming Railway

(The Hunan-Guizhou Railway passes through the mountains, photographer @王璐) ▼

The Beijing-Guangzhou and Shanghai-Kunming lines

Connecting many important old and new cities in Hunan

Laying a solid foundation for Hunan's economy

Zhuzhou, the intersection of two railways

It has been upgraded from a small town to an industrial center in Hunan.

Known as the " city brought by trains "

Relying on the railway

Hunan finally bids farewell to the closed land

Ushering in complete connectivity

The advantages of non-ferrous metals and other minerals are fully utilized

Metal smelting, engineering machinery, train manufacturing, aerospace , etc.

Hard-core industries have set up shop in Hunan

(Hunan Changsha Maglev Train, manufactured by Hunan Zhuzhou, photographer @李咸良) ▼

But only these

It is not enough to make Hunan what it is today

Hunan not only connects the four directions physically

It also formed a daring and hardworking character.

A career recognized by Hunanese

I want to make a name for myself

(Dragon dance in Xiangxi, photographer @唐俊) ▼

You may not know Shaoyang

But the merchants in Shaoyang

Starting from the difficult and dangerous rosewood business

Dominated the markets in Laos and other Southeast Asian countries

You may not know Xinhua

But the people of Xinhua started by dismantling an imported machine.

It actually monopolized the national printing market in one go.

You may know that if you want to learn about excavators, you can go to Lanxiang

But you may not know

The largest number of excavators in China comes from the Changsha-Zhuzhou-Xiangtan area of ​​Hunan

They gradually moved from low-end to high-end

Created a world-class industrial cluster

(Near Changsha South Railway Station, where the Beijing-Guangzhou High-Speed ​​Railway and the Shanghai-Kunming High-Speed ​​Railway intersect. Photographer: Li Xianliang) ▼

Beyond the rise of industry and commerce

Hunanese people have also made a name for themselves in the entertainment industry

Facing the ever-changing trend of the times

They pioneered the live broadcast of news on Chinese television

Dare to be the first to shout out the slogan " Happy China "

To this day, Hunan Satellite TV is still the absolute king among provincial satellite TV stations.

(Changsha Meixi Lake Concert Hall, photographer @蒋小翼) ▼

Towns big or small

Hunanese people also live seriously and hard

In every ordinary street, alley, corner

Prosperous civilian business

And the strong smell of fireworks

People from all over the country come here to visit

It also haunts the wanderers who have left Hunan.

(The towns and cities in Hunan are Huangdu Dongzhai, Chadong Town, Changde City, Changsha City, photographer @杨顺韶&蒋小翼&君作刀&5零2)

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Hunan Today

You can recall the most passionate history

And can create the most extravagant fantasy

Can develop the most hardcore industry

There are also ordinary alleys that soothe people's hearts

Lake and mountains surrounded on all sides

Millennium of exciting crowds

Shaping the two sides of Hunan

Closed isolation, open diversity

Hard work, free and easy romance

Seemingly unrelated

But on this vast expanse of mountains and waters

Interwoven into a unique Hunan

(Zi Que Jie Terraces, photographer @刘勇)

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This article was created by

Written by : Li Chuyang

Image: Pan Chenxia

Design : Li Xueqian ********

Map : Wu Xintian

Proofreading : Yunwukongcheng & Qingliu & Tang Wenjun

Head photo, cover photographer: Liu Zhong

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